Last updated on December 7th, 2023
A total solar eclipse is a rare and beautiful sight. You will only get one chance to see it in your lifetime, so make sure you know how to photograph it! This blog post will answer what a solar eclipse is and the best safety for looking at one.
We’ll also go into photography gear when going to shoot a solar eclipse on camera. You’ll learn how to safely shoot a solar eclipse sequence on camera. You’ll even know how to photograph an eclipsed sun with pictures of the corona visible, as well as tips for photographing annular or partial solar eclipses sequences.
We’ll cover camera settings when shooting a solar eclipse, including focus accuracy and sharpness, composition and framing; how to enjoy the event; and more so you can get on watching and capturing this mega phenomenon.
What is a Solar Eclipse?
A solar eclipse is when the moon crosses between the earth and the sun. When light from the sun shines through a hole in its atmosphere, it creates an annular or partial eclipse that can be seen on earth and different coronal structures visible during total eclipses.
The last total solar eclipse happened on Monday, August 21, 2017, and the next one will occur on April 8, 2024. In between those two dates, there are four annular eclipses and a partial eclipse as well.
For this upcoming total solar eclipse on April 8, 2024, many states will see at least a partial solar eclipse in the morning or afternoon. Even Hawaii will get in on the action with about half-inch of the extra moon above Saturn. So everyone should be able to take part in this rare event!
A total solar eclipse happens when the moon gets between us and the sun because its size is more prominent than ours, so it can block out our view of that glaring bright ball of fire for up to two minutes or more.
How To Photograph a Total Solar Eclipse
For photographers, the total solar eclipse is a rare occasion to capture one of nature’s most spectacular events. That said, there are some things you need to know before heading out into the field for the next event.
Prepare Your Camera and Equipment
- Make sure your camera is in manual mode and that you’re using the correct type of lens.
- Use a solar filter to protect the front element of your lens from debris when photographing near trees or leaves on plants.
- Bring extra batteries, memory cards, and lenses with you just if something happens to be running out of battery space or having other issues while shooting. You want to make sure you have all bases covered, so nothing goes wrong during this once-in-a-lifetime occurrence.
Camera Settings for Shooting Solar Eclipses
Solar eclipse photography can be tricky because it’s not easy getting an exposure reading off at a bright disc surrounded by pitch blackness! If done incorrectly, then either too much empty sky or too much in the way. The best way to get a good exposure reading is through trial and error, but there are some things you can try while figuring out your settings.
What is ISO?
The amount of light read by the camera’s sensor determines what ISO setting should be used while photographing an eclipse sequence. Usually, between 400 and 800 will work well for capturing sequences with a DSLR or mirrorless camera.
Aperture
Aperture is a setting that determines how much light passes through your lens onto the camera’s sensor, and it changes in size depending on which F stop you use. As the aperture decreases (gets smaller), more light can pass through to hit the sensor; as it increases (gets more prominent), less seems to reach the sensor.”
Find the best spot to set up your gear
The best spot to set up your gear is on the ground. It’s essential to place your tripod so that it isn’t in the way of any pedestrians or other camera setups and find a level surface for your lens setup.
Be aware of how much space you have around you as well. You want enough room for someone else coming down an alleyway with their own equipment setup without tripping over yours!
If possible, be sure not to shoot directly where people are walking; photographers should set up at least 20 feet from walkways if no fences are blocking them off. This will ensure that they don’t trip over anyone while trying to take photographs during totality (the moment when the eclipse reaches it’s maximum).
Set up a tripod for stability
Using a tripod for photographing a solar eclipse helps you maintain a stable shot that doesn’t suffer from camera shake. A lack of stability may also hinder how sharp your photos are, so it’s best to use the equipment you have available for this purpose!
Your tripod will need to be positioned in such a way where its legs don’t cast any shadows on your lens setup or eclipse viewing area; make sure they’re not blocking anything essential, and their shadow is visible in the frame before beginning photographing.
Setting up at least 20 feet away from walkways if no fences are blocking them off ensures that someone else won’t trip over anyone while trying to take photographs during totality (the moment when the eclipse reaches its maximum). This distance should only apply to those who plan to shoot an eclipse in a public area!
A camera timer is an optional tool that can be used to take photos without constantly touching the lens or adjusting settings. Just set it for how long you want your exposure time to last and then start photographing, making sure not to change any of its other locations while doing so.
It’s best if all flashes are turned off for safety reasons as they might cause people who have sensitive eyes during this moment of darkness distress. However, some cameras (such as DSLR) allow photographers to use their built-in flash when shooting during totality – just make sure it doesn’t produce too much light and reflects nicely off of objects in which it goes off at close range.
Choose the appropriate shutter speed, ISO, and aperture settings for your lens, camera, and subject
Shutter Speed
The shutter speeds you use when photographing an eclipse will depend on the type of lens you’re using.
This is because a shorter exposure time means your images are less striking but show more movement, while a longer one captures everything in focus but might not capture as much natural motion or light changes due to how long it’s set for – so find out what works best with the equipment you have before starting.
However, some photographers prefer to shoot at slower shutter speeds during totality than usual (a few seconds) which can produce interesting effects like star trails in bright fields or blurriness where there should be sharpness if they don’t need perfectly focused shots from their camera lenses.
Shoot at a slower shutter speed to capture more motion and pull out detail in the landscape. The longer you leave your shutter open, the more blurring that occurs on any moving objects (waterfalls) or people traveling through the frame – it’s best to keep them as still during an eclipse because there is no way of knowing how long totality will last for each location before it moves off into partial phases. Also, try not panning too much with camera movement; this can also cause blurriness, among other things, if done incorrectly!
ISO
Set your ISO between 100 – 400 depending on whether your goal is capturing images where framing isn’t so vital or else higher ISOs for something like live streaming where
If you’re using an SLR camera, the ISO is going to depend on how quickly your shutter speed changes during the eclipse – but if it’s changing too much, then you might want to shoot at the lowest possible setting as this will lead to less graininess.
For your images not to get overexposed due to brighter light, use manual exposure settings so that you can adjust them depending on where totality falls along the arc (or “totality diagram”).
Aperture
F/22 – F/32 typically works well when shooting solar eclipses because it helps keep everything sharp in focus rather than just one spot on the disc at any given time, which is helpful if trying to capture all phases of the event as seen from different angles. As much depth of field as possible is always better! Having that depth of field ensures that you’re capturing as much of the unique details in your image, which means that they will be crisp and not blurry.
Use manual focus mode if possible
Manual focus mode is best when shooting a total solar eclipse because it allows the photographer to fine-tune their focus on individual elements. Automatic or autofocus mode may not be as accurate and can lead to blurry images, which is a bummer when you’re trying to capture everything in sharp detail!
Take test shots of the eclipse in progress
The reason why you should take test shots of the eclipse in progress is that it’s hard to know if your settings are accurate until you’ve seen some of the eclipses. By taking test shots, you’ll be able to tweak your camera settings and composition so that everything is perfect!
To take test shots, you should point your camera at the sun and press down on the shutter button. Your goal is to get a picture that has exposure with no blooming, meaning it should be dark in the sky but bright around the edges of the eclipse.
Equipment needed for photographing the eclipse
It’s a good idea to have the following equipment on hand when photographing an eclipse:
- Camera with manual controls and lens capable of opening up wide enough to take in all 360 degrees around you.
- A sturdy tripod or some way to hold your camera still without shaking it, like if you’re using a remote shutter release.
- Optional, but worth it, are solar filters, which are kind of like a pair of sunglasses for your camera.
- Extra lens cap or some way to cover up the front glass when it’s not in use so that light doesn’t get into your viewfinder and ruin one frame on its own.
- Some sort of external shutter release, if you don’t have an intervalometer built into your camera, which can take these shots automatically.
- A screen protector because who knows what will happen during the eclipse! It would be a shame to accidentally damage something as expensive as our screens while photographing this historic event!”
- A camera timer is an optional tool that can be used to take photos without constantly touching the lens or adjusting settings. Just set it for how long you want your exposure time to last and then start photographing, making sure not to change any of its other locations while doing so.
It’s best if all flashes are turned off for safety reasons as they might cause people who have sensitive eyes during this moment of darkness distress. However, some cameras (such as DSLR) allow photographers to use their built-in flash when shooting during totality – just make sure it doesn’t produce too much light and reflects nicely off of objects in which it goes off at close range.
Tips for Taking Photographs of the Eclipse
The eclipse will make some fantastic photographs, but it’s not easy to take a good one. Here are tips on how to prepare ahead of time and what settings you should use, as well as things you’ll need for the big day.
Know the date and time of your eclipse
The most important thing to know before photographing a solar eclipse is the date and time of your event. There are different types, including partial (when only part of the sun’s disk will disappear) and total (where the full sun disappears).
Partial
Photographers can use this type when shooting during totality since it won’t darken their frame completely.
Totality
This is where you’ll want to start setting up all your equipment for excellent photographs – make sure to have them ready long beforehand so that they’re not too complicated or rushed once it gets closer.
Find a location that has as much open sky as possible
Preferably, you will want a clear view to the west. Do some scouting to find a location that has as much open sky as possible and is not in the path of totality
- Make sure you have an unobstructed view to the west, preferably from a high point
- Find somewhere with a clear horizon and no trees or buildings blocking your sightline
- The last thing you want is for someone else’s camera flash to ruin your shots during totality!
Try going up on top of hills or mountains – they’re usually great places that will give you expansive views. Shoot from them while it’s still light enough outside, so there won’t be any other obstacles getting in your way once it gets darker.
Once totality begins, switch over to photographing only what’s happening around you at ground level.
Make sure to wear protective eyewear
Eclipse glasses are your best bet. If you don’t have any, try using a welding mask or some other way of blocking out sunlight (e.g., with your hand).
It’s important to only look at the eclipse when it’s completely dark and not during partial phases, leading to permanent eye damage!
Here are some things that people like photographing:
- Silhouettes
- Animals in motion
- Eclipsed objects on their own
- Parts of buildings being framed by an object-less sky/skylight.
A solar filter designed for photography is also recommended if you plan on shooting long exposures – they’re made specifically for high levels of light and can be used with manual exposure settings without worrying about the bright light damaging your cameras sensor.
Prepare for the weather
- Make sure you have sunscreen, water, snacks, and anything else you might need if it gets cold or hot while watching.
- Use a compass app to help you identify where the sun is at any point in time, so your photos are as accurate and precise as possible.
- You can see what filters might work for you by looking up “solar filter photography” on Amazon. These sites have good reviews from photographers, so it’s a great way to find out what works best for photographing an eclipse!
Have an idea of what to expect during totality
- There will be darkness followed by bright light from stars and planets visible from the earth’s perspective.
- In the United States, totality will last less than three minutes.
- The corona of an eclipse can also be seen during a total solar eclipse, and it might not show up in other circumstances.
- It is essential to know that you should never look at the sun without wearing eye protection! Eclipse glasses are inexpensive and easy to find, so make sure everyone involved has them on before looking into the sky for any length of time.
Keep track of how long totality lasts for solar eclipse photography
When you know how long totality lasts, you can tell others about it when they ask!
- Totality will last less than three minutes in the United States.
- The corona of an eclipse can also be seen during a total solar eclipse, and it might not show up in other circumstances.
It is essential to know that you should never look at the sun without wearing eye protection! Eclipse glasses are inexpensive and easy to find, so make sure everyone involved has them on before looking into the sky for any length of time.
Frequently Asked Questions: How To Photograph a Solar Eclipse
What type of camera do I need to shoot an eclipse?
A DSLR (preferably one with interchangeable lenses) will give you better quality images than a phone does. Don’t forget that if shooting manually, make sure your ISO is low enough and the aperture isn’t too wide open because this could lead to blurry shots.
Is it safe to capture a solar eclipse?
Shooting a solar eclipse is safe as long as you follow the necessary precautions.
- Never look directly at the sun with your naked eye!
- Use eclipse glasses when photographing or viewing it for any length of time to avoid injury.
Can you shoot a total eclipse with your phone?
No. The camera on the phone is optimized for human eyesight and will not capture the incredible range of colors in normal light that an expensive DSLR lens would, or even as well as a cheap point-and-shoot camera with its own filter attached to it.
The majority of smartphone cameras are designed to only capture light in specific ranges, including wavelengths best suited for human vision (not optimal for capturing visible details). To get the optimum shot, try shooting close-up on things like tree branches, leaves, animals, etc.
Final Thoughts: How To Photograph a Total Solar Eclipse
Before the eclipse, make sure to take a look at some of the photography tutorials that have been put out by NASA. They are all available on their website, and they will give you an idea as to what kind of gear you need to get good shots.
The best time for photographing is during totality which lasts up to about two minutes, so be prepared with your camera setup before it starts! You want to keep shooting even though it may feel like there’s not much happening because eventually, this incredible moment will come and go. Make use of every second – but don’t forget: safety first (wear dark glasses or project through binoculars).
Your camera settings should include a low ISO, a wide aperture, and high shutter speed.
When it comes to composition, remember that there will be two suns in the sky – our regular daytime star plus the one from behind the moon (or vice versa).
This may lead you to want to photograph both of them together, but don’t forget about your foreground! Ensure you’re selective with what’s in-focus or out of focus because this can really make your photo stand out.
